Gear

Beginner climbing gear for women: what to buy first

By GO! Editorial Team ·

Your first climbing kit is small: shoes, a chalk bag and, once you rope up, a harness. Outside you add a helmet. Women’s versions of these items are not just new colors: harnesses change the rise and the waist-to-leg ratio, and shoes are built on lower-volume lasts.

We compared the manufacturers’ specifications from Black Diamond, Petzl, La Sportiva and Scarpa with long-term reviews from OutdoorGearLab’s women’s harness test and women’s climbing shoe test. We have not tested this gear ourselves. Where a manufacturer does not publish a figure, or sources disagree, the tables say “Not listed”.

Climbing is dangerous. Learn to belay, tie in and check your partner from a certified instructor or at a climbing gym, and never use any of this gear without proper training.

What to buy first

For the gym:

  1. Shoes. Rental shoes work for a few sessions; your own pair is the upgrade you will feel most.
  2. Chalk bag. Small, and it keeps your hands dry.
  3. Harness. Only if you plan to climb with a rope. Many gyms rent them, so you can wait.

For climbing outdoors:

  1. Helmet. Rock and dropped gear fall at the crag. Wear a helmet outside even if you never wear one in the gym.
  2. Everything else (rope, belay device, quickdraws): buy it only after a course, when an instructor or an experienced partner can tell you what your local crags need.

Quick picks

ItemProductKey specsWhy
Harness, all-aroundBlack Diamond Momentum Harness - Women’s350 g (12.3 oz), 4 gear loops, adjustable legsWomen’s rise, pre-threaded buckle, sizes XS–XL
Harness, gym to cragPetzl CORAX LT Women’s350–460 g (12.3–16.2 oz), XS–XL, 4 gear loopsWomen’s fit ratio, wide padded waistbelt
Shoes, lace-upLa Sportiva Tarantulace Women’sLaces, flat profileClassic first shoe, easy to fine-tune
Shoes, strapBlack Diamond Momentum Climbing Shoes - Women’sTwo straps, knit upper, 4.3 mm rubberBreathable, quick on and off
Shoes, leatherScarpa Women’s OriginTwo straps, suede upper, 200 g (7.1 oz) per shoeFlat, comfort-first leather shoe
HelmetBlack Diamond Half Dome Helmet230 g (8.1 oz) in S/M, CE/EN and UIAAUnisex, two sizes
Chalk bagBlack Diamond Mojo Zip Chalk Bag95 g (3.4 oz), zip pocket, brush holderRoom for keys or a phone

How we compared them

Harnesses

HarnessFitWeightGear loopsLeg loopsWaistbelt buckle
Black Diamond Momentum - Women’sWomen’s350 g (12.3 oz)4, pressure-moldedAdjustable (trakFIT slider)Pre-threaded Speed Adjust
Petzl CORAX LT Women’sWomen’s350–460 g (12.3–16.2 oz), XS–XL4 (2 rigid front, 2 flexible rear)Not listedNot listed

Shoes

ShoeFitClosureProfileUpperRubberWeight
La Sportiva Tarantulace Women’sWomen’sLacesFlat, neutralMicrofiber and leather (OutdoorGearLab)FriXion (compound varies by version)Not listed
Black Diamond Momentum - Women’sWomen’s lastTwo hook-and-loop strapsNeutral, flatEngineered knit, microfiber linerBlack Diamond molded rubber, 4.3 mmNot listed
Scarpa Women’s OriginWomen’s, slightly asymmetricTwo hook-and-loop strapsFlatSuede (leather)Not listed (Scarpa’s pages disagree)200 g (7.1 oz) per shoe, size 38

The gear

Black Diamond Momentum Harness - Women’s: best all-around harness

The Momentum - Women’s is Black Diamond’s all-around harness with a women’s-specific rise and a bullhorn-shaped waistbelt. The buckle comes pre-threaded, and the trakFIT sliders adjust the leg loops without extra buckles. Sizes run from XS to XL. OutdoorGearLab liked its wide waistband and padded leg loops, but felt the latest version is less refined than earlier ones.

Petzl CORAX LT Women’s: comfortable women’s alternative

The CORAX LT Women’s is a women’s harness, not the unisex Corax. Petzl pairs a wide waistbelt and padded leg loops with a women-specific fit ratio, and lists gym, crag, multi-pitch and via ferrata use. It has two rigid front and two flexible rear gear loops, a rear accessory loop and CE EN 12277 type C and UIAA certification. It comes in five sizes; the S fits a 71–77 cm (28–30.3 in) waist.

La Sportiva Tarantulace Women’s: best lace-up first shoe

The Tarantulace Women’s is a flat, neutral, lace-up shoe. OutdoorGearLab called it comfortable, easy to adjust and inexpensive, and a good all-rounder for gym, sport and easy multi-pitch routes.

Black Diamond Momentum Climbing Shoes - Women’s: best strap shoe

The Momentum - Women’s uses an engineered knit upper for breathability and two hook-and-loop straps. Black Diamond builds it on a women’s flat last with a soft midsole and thick 4.3 mm rubber for durability. A lace version also exists.

Scarpa Women’s Origin: best leather strap shoe

The Women’s Origin is Scarpa’s beginner shoe: flat-lasted and slightly asymmetric, with a suede upper and two straps. Scarpa US says the current version improves comfort at the widest part of the foot and adds its PAF heel system.

Black Diamond Half Dome Helmet

The Half Dome is unisex. It has an ABS shell over EPS foam, a one-handed adjustment dial, headlamp clips and CE/EN and UIAA certification, according to Black Diamond. The S/M fits a 21–23 in (53–59 cm) head and weighs 230 g (8.1 oz); the M/L fits 23–25 in (58–63 cm) and weighs 245 g (8.6 oz).

Black Diamond Mojo Zip Chalk Bag

The Mojo Zip is a unisex, fleece-lined cylinder with a cinch closure, a rear zip pocket for keys or a phone, a brush holder and a quick-release belt, in S/M and M/L. Black Diamond adds an abrasion-resistant TPU base.

Fit guide

Shoes. OutdoorGearLab suggests sizing the Tarantulace about half a US size down for a comfortable fit, and notes it stretches 1–1.5 EU sizes over time. Your toes should touch the end, slightly bent, but never curl painfully. Synthetic and knit shoes stretch less, so buy them closer to your street size.

Harness. Use the size chart, not your jeans size. The Momentum - Women’s in size S fits a 28–31 in (71–79 cm) waist and 19–23 in (48–58 cm) legs. The CORAX LT Women’s in size S fits a 71–77 cm (28–30.3 in) waist. Ask a certified instructor or gym staff member to check the fit and let you hang in it before you buy.

Bathroom breaks. Long crag days and harnesses do not mix well. A female urination device makes it easier to pee without fully undressing.

FAQ

Do I need women’s-specific climbing gear? Not always. Women’s harnesses change the rise and waist-to-leg ratio, and women’s shoes use lower-volume lasts. If a unisex model fits you better, use it.

Should I buy shoes or a harness first? Shoes. Many gyms rent harnesses, and bouldering needs none.

Do I need a helmet in the gym? Follow your gym’s rules. Outside, wear one: rock and gear can fall from above.

Can I use hiking boots for climbing? No. Climbing shoes use sticky rubber and a tight fit. For the hike to the crag, see our hiking boots guide.

Our verdict

Start with a flat, comfortable shoe like the La Sportiva Tarantulace Women’s and a chalk bag. When you start roping up, the Black Diamond Momentum Harness - Women’s covers gym and crag. Before you climb outside, add a helmet and take a course with a certified instructor.